I like to sprinkle a little green apple wood or soaked mesquite on the coals or gas grill fire plate before I put that beef on. They have tons of lighter fluid built right in. And don’t use those ‘match-light briquettes’. Lighter fluid can really ruin the flavor of steaks and make them taste like a South Texas oil refinery. If using a charcoal grill, I always use a volcano type coal igniter. There’s nothing like a good grill-on-high preheat to get rid of off flavor. Use this time to clean it from last weeks salmon if you haven’t already (ever have a fishy ribeye? ugh.) I use a brass brush and a spatula to scrape. You can also thaw it overnight in your refrigerator. Our beef is flash frozen and vacuum packed, so we just drop a steak in a bowl of tap water for about an hour to thaw it. Go with the technological absolute-digital thermometer. And I’ve seen NY strips that are firm at rare. Ever seen the feel test that compares the pressure-response of the chin to well-done steak, nose to medium and cheek to rare? It can work, but I know people with fat chins. Thermometers eliminate all the subjective steak tests like feel. I’ve seen them as high as $120.00, but the fancy ones still don’t cook the steak for you. One with all the bells and whistles might go for $40.00. We get quick read digital thermometers for $10.00. Here are some easy hints:īuy a thermometer. Americans pride themselves on being steak eaters, so we ought to be experts, right? Sadly, I think folks ruin more steaks than they grill right.
The high end runs into a stop at 6 o'clock at the end of the swoosh.People are always asking me how to grill a ribeye. (Also note that I can dial it far back below the "low" 1 o'clock all the way thru 12 back to 8 o'clock.
Mine has its "low" (end of the swoosh) at about 1 o'clock, and its "high" (end of the swoosh) at 6 o'clock. I am not sure if all thermostats look the same. outside temperature, and wood data with the thermostat setting so at least some comparison can be made? (Am I forgetting important data?) But it's good to know what reasonable numbers are. I know that depends on climate, set up (draft), and wood type and humidity, so it's not a number I can just dial in and be happy. For those with a BK 30 firebox, what is your "don't go below" thermostat setting? Any suggestions on how to salvage it would be most appreciated. I've tried to fluff it with my fingers a bit, but didn't make a difference. This was the new rope that BK had sent me to try and remedy some of my smell issues, and it seems as though I've mucked it up before I'll even get a chance to use it which is also frustrating. I'm frustrated, and hoping that there is a way this can be salvaged. I can snuff the fire no problem by dialing down. I've held up a lighter and some candles during the burn to see if they get sucked in at that spot, and it doesn't seem that they do. Here's some pics:Īs you can see, it's clearly not a good seal at the joint. I can't pull paper through, but I think that's because the gasket is so thick everywhere else. The rope is fraying, and crispy on the outside at the joint (from creo), and you can also see a bit of soot staining that's occurring on the flat face of the knife edge of the door frame. If I run my finger down the groove in the rope, I can feel the depression where the two ends butt together, and to look at it you can see that the ends aren't butted up anymore. The butt joint was nice and tight when it was put in, but at some point after the door was rehung and I had a few fires, I noticed that the joint has separated, and I'm seeing evidence that it's no good. I need some advice about whether or not it can be salvaged. I've recently put in a new door gasket, and I think it's failing. I guess I'll be seeing that a lot less this year. You get a fun transformation from a black box that pumps out heat to a little inferno in the living room.
My favorite burn is the catch-up burn where I pack her full of pine during a cold snap and let her rip. Crazy thing can go 24 hours with a full load and dry wood, though. I run my BK on ~12 hour cycles most of the heating season, with short hot burns as needed in winter. Pretty sure it paid for itself in the first month or two. Put it in heat pump only mode, and you'll barely even see it running on your usage graphs. I spent another $75 on pipe and parts, and ended my oil bill forever for around a $200 investment. Sell your old oil fired water heater on craigslist (I got $500 for mine), and it's almost free. The Home Depot in Riverhead carries a Rheem heat pump water heater for $1300, and LIPA will cut you a $650 rebate check on that puppy.
almost 20 years in and I still haven't acclimated to that. I can't see another house from my house, but I can always hear traffic. I grew up in other places, so we possibly have very different definitions of urbanization.